Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.
“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.
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